Vintage 1950's Blue Gingham Top (Simplicity 8130)

This spring-inspired ruffle gingham top is a refashion project that I wrote a tutorial for in Issue 105 of MollieMakes magazine. More than a year has passed since I made this top. About a month ago, I decided that it was time for me to give this top an updated look. So, I restyled the original piece into a vintage 1950's style sun top using a modified Simplicity 8130 pattern.

Everything I used for this project is made using all the materials from the original ruffle top. On top of that, the other sewing materials I used (i.e. the blue floral lining fabric, interfacing, matching thread and buttons) are things that are already in my sewing stash. I bought nothing new to make this project!

PATTERN

The pattern that I used for this project is a 1950's reproduction pattern - Simplicity 8130. It's the same pattern I used for making this white bustier top and the bodice for this 1950's inspired prom dress. To spice things up a little, I also decided to do a pattern hack. I made small ruffles and added them to the front top edge of the bustier. Similar to the white bustier, I also added bra pad pockets to the lining so I can insert foam cups to the sun top and give my girls a little boost.

SEWING NOTES

Abbreviations:
RS = right sides
WS = wrong sides

Here's a rough guide on how I made this version of the Simplicity 8130 pattern:

Cutting the pieces

• Cut the following pieces
  • MAIN
    • 2 front bust pieces in blue gingham fabric
    • 2 side bust pieces in blue gingham fabric
    • 2 back pieces in blue gingham fabric
  • LINING
    • 2 front bust pieces in white fabric
    • 2 side bust pieces in white fabric
    • 2 back pieces in blue floral fabric
  • ADDITIONAL POCKET FOR BRA PAD INSERT
    • 2 front bust pieces in blue floral fabric
    • 2 side bust pieces in blue floral fabric

Making it up

1. Apply interfacing to white fabric pieces. Sew darts for ALL front and side bust pieces. Sew front and side bust pieces for MAIN, LINING, and POCKET along princess seam. Skip sewing the centre seams for now.
2. Sew upper bust boning to LINING. (Photo A)
3. Place POCKET pieces, right sides together. Then, sandwich these 2 blue floral bra pocket pieces between the white LINING fabric, with the right side of the white LINING fabric facing the wrong side of the POCKET pieces. Sew these 4 pieces together along the centre seam. Press seam open. This is now referred to the LINING+POCKET piece. (Photo B)
4. Sew all the MAIN pieces together.
5. Pin and sew LINING back pieces (blue floral) to LINING side bust pieces (white) together along the side seams.
6. Insert side boning to side seams of LINING.
7. Make ruffle. (Photo C)
8. Pin ruffle to MAIN piece along upper edge, sew in place with basting stitches. (Photo D)
9. Place MAIN (with ruffle basted on it) and LINING + POCKET pieces, right sides together. Pin and sew along upper edge.

bra pad insert

11. Press upper edge seams open. Understitch the upper edge of LINING.
12. Place RS of MAIN and LINING+POCKET pieces together and sew all around, leaving a small opening to turn the bustier inside out. (Photo E)
13. Turn bustier inside out. (Photo F)
14. Topstitch the lower edge of bustier in place.
15. Sew buttons and buttonholes. (Photo G)
16. Sew straps with buttonholes. Then, handsew button on centre seam in lining. (Photo H)

Last but not least, I used the remaining bits of the blue floral fabric to make a reusable mask for myself. Hope you're staying safe x

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