Workwear Inspired Overalls (Burnside Bibs Hack)

Hello hello! I’m back with the 3rd version of my Burnside Bibs and this time, it's another pattern hack! Wow, I just looked it up and it seems like the Burnside Bibs was released in 2017. Is it relevant in 2020!? A classic style like these bibs is timeless, my friend. BTW, not sponsored, haha.

I made my first version of the Burnside Bibs in late 2019 using a black and white, vertical striped fabric. The fabric choice was a deviation from my usual preference of bright colours and pretty prints because it was meant to be a bibs devoted for wearing to my 9-to-5 job. 

My second version of the Burnside Bibs is a hacked version, and also is a better representation of my usual go-to style aesthetic – a vintage 1940’s inspired short summer version with ruffles on the shoulder straps and scalloped hem, made with a pink 1930’s inspired ditsy floral fabric. I know it’s a mish-mash of decades, but I’m not a purist. There’s a photo tutorial on this blog for making the modifications and for anyone who’s a video learner, there’s also a video tutorial. 

front and back

DESIGN INSPIRATION

Now let’s get to this version of the Burnside Bibs pattern hack! Watching Land Girls (BBC 2009 – 2011 TV Series) has gotten me inspired to start making vintage-inspired workwear. But dedicating time and effort into making a whole set of WW1-inspired workwear made up of army green knitted sweater and tan bibs seems like a huge commitment to me right now, so I decided with something more modern – the camouflage print. 

This pink, medium-weight cotton canvas caught my eye when I was out just casually window-shopping at Chinatown one day and I decided that it would be a great fabric to use for my workwear inspired bibs! I really love the shade of dusty pink which gives it a look that is different from all the other usual camouflage prints. 

SEWING NOTES

PATTERN HACK DESIGN

Here’s a summary of the additional / modified design elements for this Burnside Bibs pattern hack and my reasons for them:

• Ankle length: For wearing boots over them, which will be very helpful when doing really dirty work and keeping myself warm in winter
• Cuffed pants: To show off the plain fabric on the underside and provide a contrast in design
• Button closure for shoulder straps replacing the need for ties: To avoid the fuss of working with the ties while working hard in the garden! Also, medium-weight cotton canvas isn’t meant for making itty-bitty string ties.
• Bodice with a square top: This design is available as an option in the original bibs pattern (as opposed to the other slightly scooped bib design). I chose this to give it a stronger vintage 1940’s workwear vibe.
• Thicker straps: I figured thicker straps would also give stronger workwear vibes but after making it up I think they are probably a tad too thick. The photos are there, you be the judge!
• Square pocket: To go with the bodice with the square top 
• Side lapped zipper with a metal zipper: For strength and durability, similar to vintage jeans zipper closure
• Little button tab at the end of the zipper closure: This last-minute addition helps prevent the zipper from opening up when I bend over. I chose a flower button to represent peace and to oppose what camouflage print usually symbolises. 

There were a few other design elements that I had in mind for this Burnside Bibs pattern hack but didn’t include in the final design. Specifically, I wanted to add a couple of loops / tabs / pen pockets etc to give it a Grease Monkey look as well but I decided it was too much. Besides, I have no idea what I need because I haven’t gotten to the stage where I’m going to be a working in a yard on a daily basis. So yeah, this will do for now!

SEWING

From a dressmaking point of view, here are the details for this version of the pattern (compared to the original pattern pieces). As a reference, I based the changes off size 00:

• Length: 26” inseam (final measurement with cuffed hem), an increase of 1" from the original pattern
• Crotch length: Increased 1” from original pattern for ease in movement
• Ties: Original pattern used ties and I completely omitted this
• Side lapped zipper: Original pattern suggested invisible zipper, which wouldn't work well with medium-weight cotton canvas
• Square front pocket: Original pattern has rounded patch pocket. I drafted mine by squaring off the edge of the original pattern (see photo below)
• Front bib square pocket: Not in the original pattern. I made mine by shortening the back pocket pattern piece from the original pattern for this
• Front waistband: Added 6/8” on long edge to match back waistband height (see photo below)
• Front pants: Shaved off ½” on each side (side seam and centre-front seam), starting from the waist edge and tapering to the original width for the rest of the pant leg for a more fitted waist (see photo below)
• Back pants: Shaved off 3/8” on each side of the centre-back seam, starting from the waist edge and tapering to the original width for the rest of the pant length for a more fitted waist
• Mini button tab for zipper closure: Not in the original pattern. I made this 6.5cm long and 2.0cm wide (final measurement) for 1.2cm wide button, sewn into the front waistband facing (see photo below)

Front pants: Shaved off ½” on each side (side seam and centre-front seam), starting from the waist edge and tapering to the original width for the rest of the pant leg for a more fitted waist

Square front pocket: Original pattern has rounded patch pocket. I drafted mine by squaring off the edge of the original pattern

Front waistband: Added 6/8” on long edge to match back waistband height

Mini button tab for zipper closure: Not in the original pattern. I made this 6.5cm long and 2.0cm wide (final measurement) for 1.2cm wide button, sewn into the front waistband facing

With the modifications that I made to the pant legs, especially with shaving small inches off the sides for a more fitted waist, I am able to avoid having ties around the waist and yet achieve a fairly fitted look. My instinct is usually to go for a tight, high-waisted look so I really had to stop myself from shaving too much of the sides off since I still want this to be a comfortable workwear! Check out the photo at the end of this post to see how much movement the bibs allow despite having a more fitted waist ;)

A SPECIAL NOTE FOR THE BUTTONS

Last but not least, let’s talk about the buttons! What’s up with the 3 buttons on the sides of the pants? They serve the purposes of both design and function! I thought having a regular back button placement for the shoulder straps was a bit boring so I wanted to change it up and use a front button placement. But having just 1 lonely button on the front side hip didn’t look so good to me so I added 2 more on each side. Here’s a bonus – the last button is the button I use when wearing this overalls with the bib down! It’s not 100% what I had in mind but considering that I basically winged it from the get-go, I think it’s a pretty cool, alternative look for the Burnside Bibs. What do you think?

An alternative way to wear my workwear style overalls!

criss-crossed straps across the back for this look

Well, I didn’t think this post would end up being this long but I really enjoyed going into the detail of my design decisions and my dressmaking modifications. I hope you’ve enjoyed this mini series of Burnside Bibs modification. I'm in the process of planning to hack the bibs into a pair of shorts. Keep your eyes peeled because I think I will be posting it up as a sewing vlog on my Youtube channel! If you enjoy my makes and want to hear / watch me do more crafty stuff, do subscribe to my channel! :)

Have you sewn the Burnside Bibs and made a pattern hack too? I’d love to hear about your hacks (for this or any other sewing patterns)!

Keep well and stay safe, everyone! x