Genêt Shorts (Deer and Doe) Sewing Pattern Review

Deer and Doe has released their new sewing patterns for spring/summer 2022 and this is my pattern review for their Genêt Pants and Shorts sewing pattern.

Disclaimer: I was provided the PDF sewing pattern for the Genêt Pants and Shorts and monetary compensation for fabric purchase in exchange for one photo + a social media post OR blog post. But because I love sharing my knowledge and experience, here’s a 3-page long blog post. x

Pattern testing for Deer and Doe

When Deer and Doe got in touch with me to test their new pattern for spring/summer, I hesitated. I don’t really do pattern testing for various reasons. However, I decided to try their Genêt Pants and Shorts sewing pattern because of the following reasons:

Fairly inclusive size range

The size range for the Genêt Pants and Shorts is as follows: waist = 23 ⅝” - 49 ⅝”; hips = 33 ⅞” - 60”. If you fall outside of the size range and would like to sew something of a similar design, I suggest checking out the Cass Pant by MakebyTFS. They also free pattern grading for PDF patterns if you fall outside of the size range!

Offer of monetary compensation for fabric purchase

I was offered monetary compensation for fabric purchase (in addition to a free copy of the PDF pattern). While it isn’t a lot considering that this pair of tailored shorts took about a week for me to sew, this is significantly better than anything else I was ever offered for pattern testing.

It’s EXACTLY MY KIND OF STYLE!

I feel like they know me and know my style by offering me this pattern to sew. High-waisted and FULL OF DETAILS. I love a sewing pattern that’s simple and yet challenges my skills.

Deer and Doe Genêt Pants and Shorts Sewing Pattern Review

Sizing

My measurements:

Waist = 25-26”
Hips = 36.5”
Crotch length (standing) = ~24”
Crotch depth (sitting) = ~27”
Thigh (standing) = 20”

*Note: My waist fluctuates quite a bit throughout the day and also across the month

Based on my measurements, I chose to sew the Genêt Shorts sewing pattern in size 36. I made NO ADJUSTMENTS to pattern pieces at all. However, I made some modifications to the construction of the shorts which changed the final design and fit by a little (see section on “Construction”).

The fit of the shorts is snug with ZERO to 0.5” ease depending on the time of the day (i.e. I can stick my thumb between the waistband and my body easily in the morning). This is my go-to fit. I love snug fits. However, if you are not a fan of that, then definitely pay special attention to the finished garment measurement.

In my opinion, because of the construction of the Genêt sewing pattern and the fabric recommended to make the pattern, sizing can also be affected. Keep reading to learn what I mean.

Fabric selection

Deer and Doe recommends a medium-weight woven with “fluid drape” to make this pants and shorts design. I made my shorts using a lightweight cotton twill in my own retro floral design (available via my Spoonflower store). Although this fabric is the appropriate weight, it doesn’t seem to have the drape that would have worked better for this pattern.

Also, with the pleats and all the layers included along the waistband, I think sizing up might be an option if you are thinking about making this pattern in a stiffer, medium-weight woven like I did. But, if you are between sizes and struggle with size, the construction of the shorts make it easy to increase and decrease the ease of the waistband as you sew.

Construction

Side seams

The Genêt Pants and Shorts is designed with side seams along the front and back pieces AND the waistband. That means that there’s ⅝” of seam allowance available if you needed to increase the ease just by a tiny bit post fitting. This would not be possible if the waistband was constructed as a single long rectangle.

And of course, if you find that you need to take in the shorts by a little, you can do the same by adjusting the side seams of the waistband and the main body of the shorts.

Seamed pockets (front)

The Genêt Pants and Shorts sewing pattern suggests the use of the main fabric to cut the seamed pocket facings. Since I was already making the shorts in a medium-weight cotton twill (that didn’t end up being as soft as I thought it would be), I felt that making the front pocket with the same cotton twill would make everything too stiff and bulky. So, I cut the pocket and the pocket facing (pattern piece 4 and 3 respectively) in the following manner:

This way, I get to reduce bulk and add a cute spot of colour on the insides of my shorts!

Welt pockets (back)

This might come as a shocker considering I have been sewing for 8 years… but I have never made a welt pocket in my life! The sewing instructions for making the welt pockets were easy to follow. The construction described is similar to the “double-lip” method like sewing bound buttonholes (i.e. you have 2 pieces of welt rectangles). I think the construction described in their sewing instructions is beginner-friendly and fuss-free. There is no handsewing involved and all raw edges are finished with zig-zag stitches. I love the simplicity of this approach.

However, having sewn bound buttonholes using different methods, I think I would personally prefer the single welt rectangle method. I also basted the welt rectangle in place before sewing the triangle flaps on the sides. In my experience, this helps to ensure that the final welt pockets look as clean and neat as possible.

*I also added my cute label under my left welt pocket for a personal touch. This label is my own design and it’s coming to my shop in May!*

Hem

The Genêt Pants and Shorts sewing pattern is designed to have the hem finished with additional facing pieces. After sewing the shorts, I decided that I wanted them a little shorter. I also fancied the idea of having cuffed hems. So, I did a hacky trick and sewed the hem in the following way:

1) Created a double-fold hem: Folded 0.5” towards wrong side, and then another 0.5” towards the wrong side, and stitched the hem in place

2) Folded a faux cuff: Folded the 0.5” double-fold hem towards the right side of the shorts, then stitched along the top of the fold

Modifications

Other than changing the construction of the hem, I only made one other change. I reduced the centre back length of the shorts by (1) pinning the waistband a little below the raw edge, (2) then sewing with the same seam allowance following the raw edge of the waistband.

I have a backward-tilt hip posture (that I have been unable to correct and repeatedly cause me occasional lower back pain 🥲) and usually have to reduce this part of patterns by a little bit.

Final thoughts on the Genêt Pants and Shorts

Overall, I really enjoyed making the Genêt Pants and Shorts. I think it’s a great sewing pattern for a confident beginner who wants to make a wardrobe staple and work on new sewing techniques. I’m curious to see how it would look when sewn with a light-mediumweight fabric and I am planning to do just that!

Thank you Deer and Doe for giving me the opportunity to make the shorts I have always wanted and to (finally) make a welt pocket.

I hope Deer and Doe will continue to expand their size range so more folks can sew their amazing patterns like this one!

My honest review of the Genêt Pants and Shorts (Deer and Doe) sewing pattern