Vintage 1950's Style White Bustier (Simplicity 8130)
Well well well, it's August now and here I am, writing about the first item I just checked off my 2019 #MakeNine list. When I first talked about my Make Nine plans for 2019, I was certain that I was NOT going to finish what I planned out to make. No, I am not a defeatist. I am just a realist who accepts the fact that life is unpredictable and things don't always go as planned.I had an unexpected change in living arrangements earlier this year and had to find a new apartment unit to rent. Finding a new place to stay and setting up my sewing space again meant taking some time off from sewing. But this also provided me with time to reorganise and helped me to learn to really prioritise what I need to sew.
In the last few months, I have embarked on several refashion projects like my collaboration with Swapaholic and my personal #Gwerkclothes project (check hashtag on Instagram for details). Refashioning is easier to do than sewing from scratch because I don't need to be too precise with cutting my fabric, and was a way for me to get back into the rhythm of sewing after the break.I also decided to prioritise making a new pjs for myself because all my other pjs are becoming so worn from repeated daily wear! My first version of the Fifi pjs, which is kind of meant to be a wearable muslin, is completed and I will be taking some time to take some proper photos of the set soon.
The facts
This vintage 1950's style white bustier top was completed at the start of year because I desperately needed a white bustier top to add to my vintage style wardrobe. I have always struggled to find a bustier that fits me, and when I got my hands on the Simplicity 8130 pattern, I knew I was going to finally make a bustier for myself.Honestly, I don't know why it has taken me so long to finally get down to making my own bustier. Other than trying to find the right pattern, I think I was also daunted by the need for me to learn to insert boning. It's silly because when I finally did it, I was surprised at how easy it is!
The fabric (and other materials)
I made this bustier using a white "linen" that I purchased during my holiday in Krabi. This is the same fabric that I used for my 1950's pullover dress. I say that with the quotations because I had done a burn test with the fabric and found that it really is a poly-linen mix. The lining for inserting my bust paddings is another a red gingham polyblend from another project I completed (more on that in another post). I thought the idea of using a different fabric for the lining would be cute because it gives the final garment a more interesting look.The boning I used is some discounted, flexible plastic boning I bought from Spotlight years ago. Basically, this bustier is made from some really cheap materials because it was just meant to be a wearable muslin.
The fit (and some modifications)
The first time I put the bustier on, I thought I had just made the most perfect bustier top for myself. But when I started wearing it during my vacation in Koh Samui, I realised that I probably should have done a small bust adjustment to it so that the centre of the bustier lies closer to my skin. You can see the red gingham peeking out at times in the photos. I can play beach volleyball in this bustier without any fear of endangering my modesty, but the perfectionist in me keeps paying attention to that 2cm gap between my skin and the centre topmost point of the bustier. Am I crazy?Regardless of that gaps, I still think that this bustier has a pretty good fit overall, considering that made a few omissions in this wearable muslin. I omitted the use of interfacing and the boning on the back bodice. I didn't think that I needed something that feels stiff like a corset when I plan to have this as part of casual wear.The other thing I changed when making my own bustier with this pattern was to add the extra gingham lining on the inside for the purpose of adding some removable bra paddings. With this additional design feature, I feel confident going braless in this bustier. My lack of assets means that I can never have that 1950's bombshell look that I want but I always get around it with a little help from a couple of sponges.
Final thoughts
Now that I have gotten over the fear of using boning in a garment, the next element that I am going to include in my next version of the S8130 bustier is shirring along a segment of the back bodice. Many of the vintage 1950's bathing suits and playsuits have this design feature to enhance the fit of the garment. I wonder if an SBA alone will solve the issue of the 2cm gap between my skin and the centre of the garment but I think I would also like a little bit of give for a fitted garment made with a non-stretch woven fabric like this. I know from experience with my Simplicity 1426 (Hawaiian, Pineapple, Gingham versions) that sneezing (and sometimes breathing) could be painful when THERE IS NO ROOM for my ribs to expand.
All in all, this is a pretty decent pattern for a petite gal like me. I can't wait to get my final PERFECT bustier pattern after some additional modifications. I already have plans to use this pattern in an upcoming sewing project - a 1950's prom style gown made with a gorgeous starburst tulle from Minerva Crafts!Have you tried this pattern? What are some of the fit issues and what modifications did you have to do?